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Lesson · Appetizers Mastery

About Smörgåsbord & Smørrebrød

In Norway and Denmark, the generous buffet table commonly known as a “smorgasbord” (meaning “sandwich table” in Swedish) is called a koldtbord (a “cold table”). The Smörgåsbord is a buffet offering many small dishes from which people can serve themselves according to their appetite and personal tastes. The smörgåsbord concept most likely originated from the term brannvinsbord (“spirits table”), popularized in Scandinavia in the mid-18th century. The brannvinsbord’s centerpiece was a mini-barrel of aquavit (a Scandinavian distilled beverage) with small dishes of food around it, which was offered to a houseguest upon arrival. 

The origin of the brannvinsbord and it’s evolution into the Smörgåsbord shows parallels with the Russian zakuski. Both the wealth of the host and the importance of the guests were measured by the plentitude of the zakuski or brannvinsbord. Over time, the choice of dishes in a brannvinsbord became increasingly extensive. While the traditional centerpiece concept remained unaltered, wealthier households boasted more opulent centerpieces from precious metals and separate vessels for each guest. 

It was thought to be inappropriate to drink more than six shots of spirits with a meal. Because of the strict laws which were introduced for serving alcohol in 1917, the Smörgåsbord diminished insignificance and was only available in a smaller version; the hors d’oeuvre smor, ost och sill (butter, cheese, and herring). 

While the Smörgåsbord diminished in significance due to early 20th-century prohibitionist laws, since the beginning of the 1960’s it has been undergoing a renaissance, nowadays, it is only available in restaurants as the Swedish have lost the habit of offering a Smörgåsbord at home. A true contemporary Smörgåsbord consists of at least four courses, not an easy feat for a home chef to achieve consistently.

Cook it: recipes for this lesson

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