Bâtonnage is the French term for stirring the lees back into a wine during maturation. The technique is most often associated with white wines aged in barrel, especially Chardonnay from Burgundy. Stirring can suspend fine lees, increase contact between the wine and yeast-derived material, and contribute texture and complexity.
After fermentation, fine lees settle at the bottom of a barrel or tank. The winemaker uses a clean stirring tool, traditionally a bâton, to gently resuspend the lees. Frequency varies from daily to occasional or no stirring at all, depending on the wine’s style, condition and maturation plan. The lees should be suitable for continued contact; gross lees and unwanted deposits are generally removed.
Lees contact and bâtonnage can contribute a fuller mouthfeel, creamy texture and aromas associated with bread, yeast, nuts or pastry. The effect depends on the amount and condition of the lees, temperature, time, oxygen exposure and the wine’s composition. Excessive or poorly managed stirring can create reductive aromas or other faults.
Example: a barrel-fermented Chardonnay may undergo periodic bâtonnage during élevage to develop texture and integrate its oak and lees character.
Sur lie means the wine is aged in contact with its lees. Bâtonnage is the active stirring of those lees. A wine can be aged sur lie without bâtonnage.
Chef’s note: lees-derived texture can complement rich seafood, poultry and cream-based preparations. Do not assume that every creamy Chardonnay has undergone bâtonnage; malolactic fermentation and oak ageing can also influence texture.
This term is one of hundreds covered in depth across OCS courses, learning paths, and 1-on-1 coaching with Chef Eric.
