Cannelé (also written canelé) is a small, fluted pastry associated with Bordeaux in southwestern France. It has a deeply caramelized, crisp exterior and a soft, moist, custard-like interior flavoured traditionally with vanilla and rum. The distinctive ridged shape comes from a fluted mould.
A traditional cannelé batter is made with milk, flour, sugar, eggs or egg yolks, butter, vanilla and rum. It is closer to a thin custard-style batter than a conventional cake batter. Resting the batter in the refrigerator allows the flour to hydrate and the flavours to develop; many recipes rest it overnight or longer.
Copper moulds are traditional and are often coated with beeswax and butter, although silicone and other moulds are also used. Baking generally begins at a relatively high temperature to develop the crust, then continues at a lower temperature so the centre cooks without the exterior burning. Exact temperatures and times depend on mould size, oven performance and the recipe.
A successful cannelé has a dark, crisp shell and a moist, tender interior with a fine, custardy structure. Pale crusts may result from insufficient heat or an unsuitable mould preparation; an overly dark or bitter shell can indicate excessive heat or baking time. A gummy centre may mean the pastry is underbaked or the batter has not been properly rested or formulated.
Chef’s tip: Test one mould first to establish the correct oven profile. Allow baked cannelés to release and cool on a rack so steam does not soften the crust.
Key distinction: Cannelé is a specific Bordeaux pastry with a caramelized fluted crust and custard-like centre, not simply a small cake baked in a decorative mould.
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